Caterpillar 3126 radiator

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CAT 3126 - 300HP U280 & U295

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caterpillar 3126 radiator

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Save to my equipment. Please enter a unique identifier for your equipment.Please login or register. RobertK Newbie Posts: 8. Put this in new topic for future searches. The capacity is 14 qts for the engine only.

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I found it under refill capacity what a strange place to put it insert slap on the forehead here. Bob, The engine only coolant capacity is close to meaningless. Whether draining coolant to work on the engine such as install block heater or when changing coolant, much but clearly not all the coolant in the radiator will drain out. You need to get you coolant system capacity from your coach or chassis maker. Robert, I don't know what coach you have, but it looks like you might want a ballpark number.

Obviously way more than the 14 quarts the engine itself holds. Ken I think I have a good number on it now: 12gal should do it. You were right if I didn't get the exact amount thought I could average it out to a good guess. Put about miles on last year and had read the Cat Forum and thought this is something not to put off this year.

It is funny that we don't think to do this on reg vehicles. Phaeton02 Newbie Posts: 5. RobertK I recently purchased a Phaeton with B. The previous owner could not provide any information about coolant change or condition. Rather than take on the time, trouble and expense without having what information I could gather I decided to take a coolant sample to my local Cat lab for analysis. The report indicated the coolant was conventional not ELC and that the only thing it needed was a quart of scale inhibitor added.

I enjoy tinkering like the best of you but also like to maintain rather than discard when possible. Just a suggestion. Quote from: Phaeton02 on January 14,PM. SMF 2. Just a suggestion, If they are suggesting that original coolant after 10 years is still serviceable, you would find no one at Caterpillar or Cummins, or Detroit Diesel for that matter who would agree. The cost of coolant is really cheap compared with the cost of a radiator or an engine issue.

Just a suggestion, Adding a bottle of 'scale inhibitor' Likely it was Cat supplemental coolant additive. For a possible ten year old coolant I absolutely agree with Brett.

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No way is that coolant good to continue. The Cat lab, did they give you any indication as to degradation products in the coolant. The pH value? Coolant is cheap but can cause expensive consequences.Forums New posts Search forums. What's new New posts Latest activity. Log in Register. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. New posts. Search forums. Log in.

caterpillar 3126 radiator

For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Thread starter dhshipley Start date Dec 15, We bought it this past summer and it's the first diesel I have ever owned. I discovered that it had pure water in the generator and the engine and it was supposed to get downin the 20s that night so I drained them both.

The generator was easy. I just followed the manual, it was clear. The chassis manual was not so clear about the coolant replacement. It mentions an "engine venting petcock" and says that air must be vented from the engine to prevent damage.

I cannot find this petcock on the engine. The only info I can find on the internet says to fill the coolant system and run the engine. But I'm not sure they are talking about the same engine!

caterpillar 3126 radiator

Anyone got any knowledge of this procedure? C Nash Senior Member. Re: B CAT diesel coolant replacement procedure? Welcome to the forum David and Peggy. Are you just draining and replacing with antifreeze or just draing the water to empty. If you are just draining you will have to find the pepcock for the engine block or it will still have water in the block which can freeze.

If you are just installing antifreeze you should not have to drain the block. Just install the recomended amount in the radiator and run the enging until reaching operating temp. Not familiar with the diesel system as most of my experience is with gas but Rod will be on later and can better advise so keep check. Triple E Senior Member. Hello and Welcome to the site. Be sure you use antifreeze for a diesel engine. Not for gas. Cat will have the correct antifreeze and it is not over priced.

I just had my drained and refilled.We left home 3 weeks ago on what was supposed to be a 5 month trip. We did an oil change yesterday, and left Centralia this morning.

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We stopped for fuel in Woodland Wa. We made a quick stop off to pick up supplies in Tigard Oregon and when we came off the free-way, the alarms went off: We were over heating. The coolant reservoir was full. Could I still have low coolant levels, even though the overflow tank was full? Thermostat issues? I was still getting hot air when I ran the heater on the dash, so the heater core is getting flow through it. No oil in the water, nor water in the oil, so that pretty much rules out a head gasket, right?

The oil pressure is right where it should be. We had no issues heading north three weeks ago, none until we got off the free-way this afternoon. I don't want to cancel this trip, however if we cannot find an answer, we're stuck here for the winter.

New & Used CATERPILLAR Radiators For Sale

Not something I relish at all. Once cooled down, remove the radiator cap and verify coolant level there-- with an overflow reservoir, it should be full no air. The has a separate V belt that drives only the water pump. Check its tension-- it is NOT on an automatic tensioner. If you have a rear radiator, you will need to lay on the ground, driver's side of engine front of engine, back of coach.

If above OK, I would replace the thermostat s. Not that difficult to do. Probably have two in the same housing. Go to a Caterpillar dealer with your engine serial number to get the right one s. Brett, sounds like a stuck thermostat or one partly stuck.

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Coming off freeway so not under heavy load and. Possible belt or idler pulley fails check first than thermostat. I have had a thermostat fail the spring retaining metal hoop failed at the top this allowed the valve to twist sideways.

Almost a total blockage of coolant flow. Water pump belt is tight, pulley is functioning with no audible or visual signs of malfunction. I am now leaning towards the Thermostat idea. Access the top of the engine: under bed or closet-- you need to get to the top front of engine back of coach. Pour the coolant into the thermostat housing until just below overflow level this prevents an air lock when starting the engine. May not take all of it until engine started, warmed up and cools down. One way to check the thermostat that you remove is a pan of water.

Pt. 18 I Blew Up My Radiator. 91 F350 CAT 3126 Engine Swap

Take a saucepan put the thermostat in the pan and cover it with water set it on the stove on high. As the temperature rises watch to see if the thermostat begins to open. If it opens all the way before the water boils then it is good if you have a thermometer in the water you can confirm at what temperature it opens.Please login or register.

Stuplich Full Member Posts: I have an oil leak. The leak is below and NOT from the valve cover or the visible sensor. The leak, leaks?

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No such luck Since they did not give me the estimate I left with the impression that they are satisfied with the thousands of dollars I have spent there on this coach, and don't need any more of my business. My Cat dealer did not help me and I don't know where to turn. I'm curious about the "side covers" on the side of the block, behind the starter and the ECM. On my '96 DP that is the curb side of the engine. What are those covers and what do they cover?

Has anyone else dealt with an oil leak in that location? Thanks Mel '96 Safari Sahara, hp Cat.

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I will check it out more next week and post my results. I should have done my homework before buying. This is a BIG job. Richard, While I agree with your frustration in the difficulty to access the engine with a rear radiator, it is not really fair to blame the engine itself for the difficulty of reaching normal service items. ALL rear radiators are equally difficult to work on. Both Caterpillar and Cummins were used in rear as well as side radiator configurations.

Our Foretravel is side radiator, and engine access is great.

188-3126: RADIATOR AS

BUT, side radiators are more expensive to build. You are correct, I shouldn't blame the engine for an oil leak but, since doing some research on CATs and leaks, it seem they are very prone to this possibility. This is not a "normal service item".

I do all the other maintenance myself but when I look at the radiator removal, I don't think it is within my abilities. I will handle this problem but seriously will have a problem purchasing another coach with a CAT. I have never owned a vehicle with an oil leak other than this one. What am I to think?This site uses and sets "cookies" on your computer to help make this website better by keeping the site reliable and secure, personalizing content and ads, providing social media features, and analyzing how the site is used.

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Internet Explorer users may experience issues with certain features of our site. Please try a current version of an alternate browser i.I'm in the process of deciding to put in an offer on a Cabo with the B engines I'm very interested in what you find out as well as any additional information that will help me decide if I should avoid these engines.

Please share whatever information you can. I'd really appreciate it. Pull the injectors and replace the injector sleeves, it's a quick and easy job with the CAT tooling avaliable, should be able to do it in hours easily. Diesel in your coolant is coming from bad seals from your injector sleeves!

I have twin with 1, hours in a 51 foor Ocean Alexander, noticed both overflow reserve containers looked like oil filled or very dark through the plastic. Sampled coolant in engine and overflow and was bright pink but then swabbed the walls of the reserve containers and rag came out black, smelled like oil or diesel with oil consistency. Surprized both engines look exactly the same. Cannot find any location where oil could mix with coolant unless the injectors issue is the source?

Has anyone solved this issue by replacing the injector sleeves? In my opinionthe most probable cause for your problem is bad or damaged injector sealssince the injector sleeves on this type of engines is not like the copper sleeve on the meui engine and its harder and the chance to be cracked is very low.

To all who have read this post and offered advice, I want to thank you for showing the interest and taking the time to help a fellow boatie out. I'm sorry for the delay in replying.

I changed the injector SEALS only, since at the time I didn't have the correct tooling to change the sleeves, and thought it'd be worth a try, since lots of people here thought that alone might fix it.

I've run the engines for more than hours since changing the seals, and they work like a charm. The coolant looks as good as the other side now, and I've just serviced the engines and sent the fluids for SOS analysis to be sure, but I think that's done the trick.

I might mention though, that soon after changing the seals, I retested the coolant, and it still had diesel and some rusty brown discoloration in it, which threw me right off. After much angst, I eventually noticed that in particular on the Azimut, the Port engine coolant line with the hassles is connected to the hot water heater freshwater circuit on a recycling circuit, and the inlet tap to the heater was switched off, so no fluid was flushing through it, but little by little, the residual diesel and old coolant already in the heater core was trickling back into the fresh coolant via the outlet tubing!!

I then had to dump the coolant expensive! Since then, there have been no further problems, and we also have hot water from the taps when underway, without using electric power. Once again, thanks to all for the good advice, and for helping fix the problem. This forum is great!! The B engines have been great, since I fixed the problem with the coolant. I've put plenty of hours on them, in all sorts of weather, and they have performed beautifully.

Very reliable, no hassles. Hope that helps. You boaties seem to have a similar problem to the school bus drivers Diesel in the coolant.

In my immediate area there are of the B engines that appear to have the same problem. Our problem is perhaps a bit more urgent than yours, as we have kiddies sitting inside the bus while the diesel rots the heater hoses and leaks out pinholes.

But now that its cold, heat comes on, the windows go up and the stink gets bad quick. The answers that are supplied here have saved me from a really lousy Christmas, as I was just short of panic and about to buy a bus to run my route with I'll let you know the results. Thank you, it turns out it was not the injectors but the oil coolers. Seemed odd both failed at same time. I ordered new coolers instead of rebuilt close to same price and of course the Cat mechanic installed rebuilt coolers but the oil is no longer in the coolant.

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